Moldova: a forgotten but unforgettable country
- Admin
- Sep 13
- 5 min read
Updated: Sep 16
Will Alkass recalls a trip to Moldova and its rich Christian heritage.
Although there is no mention either of Moldova or any of its cities in the book “1000 Places to see before you die", my wife Hannah and I visited this lesser-known country in Eastern Europe in June 2019 to find out for ourselves whether this omission was justified!
We encountered our first surprise while travelling by train from Bucharest in Romania to Chisinau (pronounced Kishinaw), the capital of modern-day Moldova. This sleeper train journey takes thirteen hours, not only because the antiquated communist era train is slow, but also because at the border the wheels have to be changed by lifting the train up on giant hydraulic jacks, a process that takes about three hours. It is said that this was Stalin’s way of insuring no rapid invasion could take place!
The city of Chisinau offers a number of attractions. There are no shortage of little surprises while wandering through the city's side streets and alleyways and there are a range of noteworthy architectural buildings ranging in style from neoclassical to modern.
Christian landmarks include the Cathedral of Christ’s Nativity and various other monuments, the most notable of which is a statue of Stephen the Great who was prince of the larger ancient nation of Moldavia between 1457-1504. During his reign the country rose to prominence after defeating the Ottomans and other invaders, during which time many monasteries and other institutions were established.
Although a vassal state of the Ottoman Empire, Moldavia was an independent country in medieval times, serving as a defender of European Christianity and barrier against the expansionist Ottoman Empire. Suceava was the capital of Moldavia between 1380 and 1560 during which time many unique monasteries and churches were built that have now been recognized as UNESCO World Heritage sites. Churches were generally built in the countryside and many were decorated on exterior and interior walls with amazing frescoes. Monasteries tended to be hidden in the mountains, caves, forests or meadows, and fortified with strong walls to keep out invaders and robbers.
Moldavian princes would build at least one religious site of wood or stone as a gift for God, as also did some noblemen. They believed that the more churches they built, the more God would bless them and help and protect their country. Prince Stephen the Great and his son Prince Petru Rares built the greatest number of churches and monasteries during those times and it is noteworthy that most of these monasteries are still active.
Capriana Monastery and the churches in its complex lie about half an hour from Chisinau in the midst of a beautiful forest. It has been regarded as the “Mother Monastery” since its inception in 1420, having been the seat of the metropolitan bishop of Moldova. It contains the largest monastic library and has served as the cradle of Moldavian culture, language, architecture and
music.However, it suffered neglect during the communist era as did many other monasteries, because it was converted into a sanatorium for tuberculosis patients. The neglect and destruction of frescoes inside these monasteries mean that many have had to be restored to reflect their original glory.
Not far from Capriana Monastery, is Condrita Monastery, to which the monks fled from the oppression of the Greek authorities in Capriana; it is remarkable for its original frescoes.
Also fascinating are the villages of old Orhie and Butuceni which are thirty minutes drive from Chisinau and set in the most beautiful landscape on the banks of the river Rauamong.
Hidden from view near here are a number of monastic caves which were dug out by monks in the middle of the 17th century to escape the Ottoman oppression. One stands in awe of the way of life that these monks must have led, all for the love of their unwavering faith.
In the same area of Old Ohrie lies another gem of religious and architectural importance, Curchi Monastery, which built by two brothers in 1773. It was initially built in wood but later replaced by the Italian architect Bartolomeo Rastrelli in the baroque style and inspired by St Andrews Church in Kiev. During the communist era the monastery and adjoining buildings were used as a hospital for psychiatric patients but after independence and the creation of modern Moldova it underwent major renovation.
Curchi Monastery (1773) Iconostasis at the altar
Food and wine
No trip to Moldova is complete without a tour of a winery. The Millestii Mici Winery and the adjoining wine cellars are the biggest cellars in the world according to the Guinness Book of Records. Underground tunnels extending for two hundred kilometres were used in the past to extract limestone blocks for building but are now used to store wine and other alcoholic products. It is ideal for maturing wine in oak barrels and bottles because of the constant temperature and humidity. Two million bottles of wine, including private reserves and collections for lovers of wine from all over the world, are kept there. After the guided tour you can get to taste three types of wine accompanied by local snacks.
Food in Moldova is varied and similar to other East European cuisine but also enriched by further exotic dishes. The most traditional of these is ”La Placinte” meaning pie, which is a sort of rounded thin pastry filled with cheese, spinach or pork, or apple when eaten as dessert; we were not put off by the name or the shape!
Moldova and Transnistria
Independence came to Moldova in 1991 following the collapse of the Soviet Union. The majority of Moldavian people decided to adopt the Latin alphabet and the Romanian language. However, this was not welcomed by under half a million people living in a narrow strip of land known as Transnistria on the east bank of the river Nistru at the border between Moldova and Ukraine. These people wanted to retain their affiliation to the Russian language and Cyrillic alphabet. Violence between government forces and them erupted which led to many casualties; peace of a sort was restored in 1992 and this has held until now. Transnistria is not generally recognized as a state by other countries, but it is supported by Russia and has an independent economy, industry and currency along with a police force, army and parliament and a flag with the sickle and hammer sign. Although crossing into Transnistria from Moldova by car or train is usually trouble-free for tourists we had heard some stories about the dangers of crossing into this separatist-held territory. However, our excellent guide reassured us and promised an exciting, interesting and above all safe trip to this area.
Transnistria has one impressive monastery known as the Chitcani Monastery built in 1861, with four separate churches and a very tall bell tower. One of the other attractions there is Bender castle, built by the Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. It has a very interesting history having changed hands several times during the Russian-Turkish wars in the 16th century. What is unique in this well-preserved castle is that each tower has a different design.
Moldova has enjoyed independence for some thirty-three years and has a great many places of interest for visitors who are keen on history, culture, art or religion. Although it has its fair share of social and political problems and is reported to be the poorest country in Europe, the country offers a peaceful, friendly, safe and interesting experience, not yet corrupted or diluted by the encroachment of mass tourism and consumerism; for Hannah and I it surely deserves a well-placed mention in the book “1000 Places to see before you die" ........
