On monasteries and monasticism past and present (part two)

In the second article of this series, Will Alkass writes about some of the monasteries and convents that he and Hannah have visited over the last few years. 

Monasteries and nunneries can be found nowadays in many countries throughout the world; most of them welcome visits by the public and some of them have simple lodgings for overnight stays.

While monasteries may share many common beliefs, traditions and practices, there are also differences even within monasteries belonging to the same denomination.

The Eastern 'Basilian' tradition was founded in 356 and follows the rule of St Basil the Great.

A number of orders from the Western tradition are listed below:

• Augustinian, founded in 1244. Monks and nuns follow the Rule of St Augustine (354 - 430), an early 5th century monk who lived in North Africa.

• Benedictine, founded by Saint Benedict in 540 at Monte Casino in Italy.

• Carmelite, founded by Albert Avogadro in 1247, who was born in Italy and became bishop of Jerusalem where he managed to unite the hermits of Mount Carmel into one community under his rule which is known as the "Way of Life".

• Carthusian, an eremitical closed order founded in 1084 by Bruno of Cologne.

• Cistercian, founded by Bernard of Clairvaux in north-eastern France and which has two main branches, the Cistercians of Common Observance and the Cistercians of Strict Observance (The Trappist monks)

• Dominican; founded by St Dominic in 1206. They are also called Order of Preachers and they follow the order of Augustine.

• Franciscan, founded by St Francis of Assisi in Italy in 1209 and which includes three suborders.

• Norbertine, founded by St. Norbert of Xanten in Germany, an itinerant priest who founded his religious order in Prémontré, France, around the same time as the founding of the Cistercians and Carthusians.

So why are there no Protestant or Anglican monks and nuns .... or are there?

To answer this question, one has to go back in history. In England all the religious houses were shut down and their property confiscated by King Henry VIII and Thomas Cromwell in 1535. Henry VIII didn't seem to have a theological problem with monasteries (unlike Cromwell) but he did not appreciate their loyalty to the Pope, and the huge sums of wealth that they had were rather attractive! Fast forward three hundred years and in the 19th century new monastic houses began to pop up in the Church of England in response to the Oxford Movement, a theological shift that sought to reemphasize the Catholic nature of the Church of England; many of these orders continue to operate to this day. (As an aside, you can see a fictionalized version of one of these monastic communities in the TV series "Call the Midwife" that depicts such a community focused on offering relief and aid to the urban poor). Because of a change in emphasis whereby the spiritual life has become just as available to laypeople as to the ordained, monastic life has diminished in Protestantism but still hasn't entirely gone away as you can still find Protestant monks and nuns in Anglican and Lutheran churches.

In protestant Europe after the Reformation in the early 16th century, the system that had supported all the monastic houses and other forms of vowed religious life was largely replaced. The previous dominant system on the one hand provided a 'treasury of merit' for the laity which they bought through money and donations, and on the other hand provided an opulent and immoral lifestyle for many ordained churchmen. In its place was born an emphasis on the holiness of lay people, married life and secular work. This new protestant ethos was so popular that many monks and nuns renounced their vows to take up this spiritual approach to family life.

Not all monastic houses folded after the reformation. For example Herford Abbey, the oldest women's religious house in the Duchy of Saxony, became Lutheran and continued to operate as a women's religious house until 1802 with many of the abbesses being Calvinists (including the early modern philosopher Elisabeth of the Palatinate). Later on in Protestantism, you also get the development of deaconesses who were single women living together and carrying out charitable functions on behalf of the church in a similar role to a convent.

Here and in subsequent articles, a selection of the monasteries that we have visited are briefly described along with their histories and particular features.

Serbia

This east European country, formerly part of Yugoslavia, has some of the best monasteries in Eastern Europe, scattered across the length and breadth of the land along the Transromanica Route. In fact, the Tourist Information Centre issues a map showing all the important monasteries along this route which can be easily followed by car.

Mileševa

Mileševa Monastery is a Serbian Orthodox monastery located in southwest Serbia. It was founded by King Vadislav between 1234 and 1236. The church has frescoes by the most skillful artists of the time and the fresco of "The White Angel" is very famous. The Ottomans tried to burn and destroy the monastery on several occasions but it was rebuilt after each such attempt. In

1236 the relics of St Sava, the founder of Serbian Orthodoxy, were buried in the monastery, but in 1594 the Ottomans removed and burnt them publicly in Belgrade. It is one of the few monasteries where one can lodge for several nights. The accommodation is fairly basic but what it lacks in luxury is compensated for by the beauty and serenity of the surrounding countryside, not to mention the spiritual experience to be had when surrounded by a such a gem of architectural features.

Mileševa monastery and its accommodation

This fresco of  the White Angel, located at the south wall of the monastery, shows the biblical White Angel sitting at the opening of the empty tomb of Jesus. The identity of the painter is

'White Angel' fresco at Mileseva

unknown. In later years more paintings were superimposed so the original was hidden from view but in the twentieth century it was restored. After the Cuban crisis in 1962 a copy of the White Angel was sent from Europe to America in the first satellite broadcast signal as a symbol of peace and civilization. Later, the same signal was transmitted to outer-space in a capsule to communicate with extra-terrestrial life as a peace gesture, in case such life exists!

Studenica

The Studenica Monastery was established in the late 12th century by King Stefan Nemania founder of the medieval Serb state, shortly after his abdication. It is the largest and richest of Serbia's Orthodox Monasteries. It has two principal buildings: the Church of the Virgin and the Church of The King, both built in white marble. They enshrine a priceless collection of Byzantine paintings of the 13th and 14th centuries.

Studenica monastery and its accommodation

 The "Cell" where Saint Sava lived, on the face of the mountain near Studenica Monastery.

It is of interest that Saint Sava (12th -13th Centuries) the founder of the Serbian Orthodoxy lived a hermitic life in a tiny cave situated on the mountain side which can be reached after a two hour ascent from this monastery.

Gradac, Sopocani and Zica

Gradac Monastery was built in the late 13th century and has numerous Gothic and Romanesque features. The monastery was deserted after the monks living there, fearing for their lives, fled from attacks by the Turks. It fell into disrepair with the roof collapsing, but was then restored between 1963 -1975.

Sopocani Monastery is located in the green landscape of south Serbia. It’s a 13th-century monastery famous for its extraordinary frescoes and located along the Transromanica Route in Serbia which includes all the important monasteries and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Centre for its priceless frescoes and other features.

Zica Monastery and Church of the Holy Dormition, is a 13th century Byzantine Romanesque monastery.

Republic of Macedonia

St Naum

The monastery of Saint Naum is situated by the shore of Lake Ohrid, some 200 km from the capital Skopje. With its splendid architecture, its perfect location and its accommodation for overnight stays, it is one of the most beautiful, venerated and visited monasteries in the republic. Its full wonders have to be seen to appreciate its beauty and magnificence.

The original monastery was built in 905 by Saint Naum of Ohrid during the period of the Bulgarian Empire. The monastery was then rebuilt in the 16th century as the multi-domed Byzantine structure that you see today.

St Naum died in 910 AD and is buried in a church adjacent to the monastery. Legend has it that if you press your ear to the tomb, you can hear the saint's heart throbbing!

One of the beautiful frescoes in the monastery

St. Naum of Ohrid was a medieval scholar and writer, who together with Saint Clement continued the task of spreading Christianity among the Slavic-speaking people of the region. Building upon the work of the sainted brothers Cyril and Methodius, St. Naum is associated with the creation of the Cyrillic scripts. He is credited with many miracles of healing the sick and helping the physically disabled.